Sunday Sip: The Last Supper

Today is my last day in Campania with De Conciliis. I am sad to leave this beautiful place and these truly wonderful people, but there is much more of Italy to see…and much more wine to be sipped. To send me off, everyone went out for a special lunch at a local favorite, Nonna Sceppa. And I certainly can see (and taste) why it is loved.

biz card

ambiance

Nonna Sceppa is in the town of Paestum, home of Greek temples and many a water buffalo. It is owned and operated by two brothers who happen to be married to two sisters. The men work the front of the house and the women run the kitchen. The menu is heavy on fish and seafood as are many menus in this coastal part of the region. Other items that pop up continually are eggplant, artichoke and the prized mozzarella and ricotta di buffala. We began our multi-course adventure with some Franciacorta. Bubbles and fried food = a match made in heaven.

bubbles

Fried mozzarella with anchovy and tomato & Fried eggplant "meatball"

Fried mozzarella with anchovy and tomato & Fried eggplant "meatball"

Classic fritto misto of calamari, zucchini, alici (like sardines), shrimp & artichoke

Classic fritto misto of calamari, zucchini, alici (anchovies), shrimp & artichoke

We continued with the Franciacorta for part of the next course….crudo! Crudo =  raw. This stuff was fresh, fresh and more fresh. A bite full of freshness.

Shrimp and herbs on crostini. Simple and delightful.

Shrimp and herbs on crostini... Simple and delightful

Tuna crudo with a splash of aged balsamic on crostini

Tuna crudo with a splash of aged balsamic on toast. My favorite!

prawn bonanza

During a (brief) pause before the next course we asked to see the wine list. Even though the wines were being chosen for us, a few of us wine “students” wanted to check out the goods. They proceeded to bring to the table the largest list I have ever seen. A wine bible of sorts.

the word is good

After much photo taking and giggling, we had to part with the list to make room for, yes, more food and wine. Next up was a recent Gambero Rosso “Tre Bicchieri” winner- the 2007 Vadiaperti Fiano di Avellino. The wine upon opening had a nose reminiscent of Gewurtztraminer…maybe even a little Moscato. I got excited to experience a fiano like this! But, as it sat on the table and warmed up a bit, the flaws began to become more transparent. It very well could have been an unfiltered wine but the cloudy appearance was a bit too, well, cloudy. And the acidity was quite flat. I am very surprised it just received high praise from the most venerated wine publication in Italy….hmmmmm. In any case, Bruno summed it perfectly by saying, “This wine gives no pleasure.” He speaks of pleasure in wine drinking often and I think I am adopting this as my new approach.

fiano

Lobster and shrimp with gnochettini & puree of white beans

Lobster and shrimp with gnochettini & puree of white beans

And it doesn’t end there folks. We finished with not one, but two dessert courses. And some customary digestifs, grappa and caffe of course.

Pistachio gelato with warm fudge

Pistachio gelato with warm fudge

Mascarpone cream pastry

Mascarpone cream pastry

Nocino and Apricot Digestif

After 3 hours, we finally called it quits. And needless to say, I skipped dinner this evening. A wise choice I think. Tomorrow I head north to Lazio to new landscapes and different winemakers. I leave Prignano and the entire De Conciliis family with a lot more knowledge of wine making, a better grasp on Campania’s regional identity and a much deeper understanding of the grapes fiano and aglianico. More importantly, I leave with a grateful heart and a lot of new friends.

4 Comments
  • my little apartment
    October 1, 2009

    whit, those glasses are so cool!

    • whitney
      October 1, 2009

      i know!! and i forgot to ask who makes them….bummer. but, they were def fun to drink out of (and at that point of the lunch and being tipsy and all) very fun to play with.

    • whitney
      October 2, 2009

      found it! all the stemware (or stemless) during lunch were from Bormioli Rocca

  • Joy the Baker
    October 2, 2009

    pistachio gelato with warm fudge!? fuuuuuuck yes.

    ps.. it’s like three in the morning and oooooh god! i have stories.